Monday, September 23, 2013

North to Alaska. Trailer Sailing the Inside Passage.

I am doing this travelog on the installment plan. I had great hopes of writing blogs over the summer while we were sailing. But I didn’t. I’ll try to blame it on the electronics, we had trouble keeping the computer charged, but really I needed to recharge myself even more. And downloading pictures, organizing them and writing frankly didn’t stir me. So now with the rains of fall coming and sitting in my Lazyboy I figure it is about time. My wife Viviann and I took our third trip to Alaska on Red the 27 foot trailer sailer I designed and built. We ended up spending about five weeks and going about 900 miles on the water. We live in Quilcene WA and trailer the boat to Prince Rupert BC. Ketchikan Alaska is ninety miles north of there and is where most folks go through customs. Viviann deserves credit for almost all the pictures.  photo Tripmap_zps467fc79f.jpg Getting out of the driveway onto the road is a major accomplishment.  photo DSCN8392_zpsac33b1ff.jpg Here we are on the Edmonds-Kingston ferry. It's the 3rd of July and I snuck in under the fifty foot mark. Actually I had measured and I was about 6" over. Sometime you need to stick it to the man.  photo DSCN8412_zps5dbf9ad8.jpg After taking an hour and a half to go about 25 miles, it is the day before the 4th of July after all, it was pretty smooth driving up to the Canadian border at Sumas. We did make a quick stop in Bellingham at West Marine to buy a replacement solar vent. Unfortunately I couldn’t figure out how to install it until I brought it back after the trip, so we weren’t as well ventilated as I might have liked. Oh well something had to go wrong.  photo DSCN8416_zpscca37e43.jpg I’m including a few pictures of the highway to encourage anyone to do this trip. It is worth the drive especially since the route is beautiful and the roads are in good shape with shoulders and passing lanes every ten miles or so.  photo DSCN8421_zps5afe02d0.jpg  photo DSCN8521_zps172cf63a.jpg This is the hairiest part of the trip going up the Fraser River. It is pretty steep with pullouts for trucks to check their brakes.  photo DSCN8444_zps3c70ab92.jpg That wacky Canadian sense of humor.  photo DSCN8460_zpsbf80b640.jpg Our second night at Ten Mile Lake Provincial park near Quesnel BC which is about 375 miles north of the border. We are always the center of attention among all the campers and travel trailers.  photo DSCN8560_zpsd1caf6b9.jpg The next day we drive on through Prince George with the cheapest diesel in the Canadian part of the trip at about $4.75 a gallon.  photo DSCN8566_zps6e02b6b9.jpg Then onto Houston with the world’s larges fly rod.  photo DSCN8609_zps55e6012d.jpg After about 800 miles we pull into the driveway of the organic farm where our daughter Lilly is spending the summer near Smithers BC.  photo DSCN8622_zps8b793fea.jpg Nice view from the front yard.  photo DSCN8625_zpsa72bae67.jpg It turned out it was the 30th annual Smithers’ Music Festival that weekend so we relaxed and spent the weekend hanging out with our daughter and listening to music and taking in the scene. These were a group of native dancers.  photo DSCN8628_zpse006887c.jpg Local color  photo DSCN8645_zpsc36004aa.jpg  photo DSCN8714_zps6592a7e8.jpg My daughter’s cabin. Small but cute.  photo DSCN8726_zpsb176121c.jpg My daughter and I share birthdays. The best present I ever got. Here we are enjoying the birthday girl’s favorite birthday cereal. Reese’s Pieces or some such thing.  photo DSCN8746_zps889a4744.jpg Wildlife near Smithers.  photo DSCN8780_zps89cddb6d.jpg Then Lilly gave us a bicycle tour of beautiful Smithers.  photo DSCN8752_zps5dae02ad.jpg Back on the highway down the Skeena River to Prince Rupert.  photo DSCN8959_zps13067b25.jpg  photo DSCN8965_zpsabf75ec4.jpg  photo DSC06888_zps3da4c27e.jpg After a week of hot weather the cool damp coast of Prince Rupert was a nice place to rig the boat.  photo DSCN8980_zps0964ce4b.jpg On the other two trips up I had used the Travel-lift to put in and take out. It was always quite a bit more expensive than at home but I didn’t know if I could launch and retrieve the boat off the trailer so I just bit the bullet and paid. But this time I called the boatyard and their minimum rate was $300 each way. Yikes. So I talked to a lot of folks at the boat ramp and decided to go for the gusto. It worked out fine, the boat slipped off though I had to tie it to the dock, pull the truck forward and then back further down again to get it off the trailer. Later to put it back on I lowered the rear part of the bunks and it was easy.  photo DSCN8988_zps377c70b6.jpg The ramp is steep, wide and paved. There was a fair amount of traffic as fishing was good but it worked out fine. Though when I came back down to the boat after parking the truck, a powerboat had tied up behind and they were a little miffed that a sailboat had tied up to the ramp dock. When I explained we had just launched it they were surprised and a little taken aback. Not a lot of sailboats up here period, let alone ones that launch from a trailer.  photo DSCN8993_zps54affa0c.jpg And now were are floating pretty. Like I said it is about ninety miles to Ketchikan the closest place to check into US customs. At five knots it is a two day trip so I called ahead and told them I would be anchoring along the way. They like that. On the first trip I didn’t know you were supposed to let them know and they would have been upset, except I had run aground on the way and hurt my arm pretty badly. It was swollen up and looked like it was possibly broken, so while the harbormaster waited to drive me to the emergency room, the customs guys weren’t too concerned with a lack of a phone call. I wouldn’t recommend hurting yourself as a way to avoid scrutiny however. Just make the call.  photo DSCN9001_zpsac862227.jpg Most cruising on the Inside Passage is fairly protected except for crossing Dixon Entrance which is between Prince Rupert and Ketchikan. It is a stretch of water 40 miles wide that is fully open to the Pacific. It can be terrifyingly rough. My brother fished commercially for many years in Alaska and told me crossing Dixon Entrance during a storm was the only time on a boat that he ever thought he was going to die. So we pick our weather carefully. This time we were able to go across the day after we put in the water. On the trip before we waited almost a week in Prince Rupert for the weather to clear. You just never know but I would rather wait that not. This picture was typical of the weather this time.  photo DSCN9015_zps251a5f18.jpg Here is the latest in iPad accessories. I was running out time and had to make my own floatable “waterproof” case. I used INavX on it and it worked great. I did replace the Ziplock every once in a while.  photo DSC06896_zps1d188692.jpg Here are a couple of little cruisers we ran into coming into Ketchikan. I couldn’t come any closer or their helicopters would strafe me.  photo DSC06898_zps17b87a78.jpg We met up with my nephew Jake on a purse seiner in Thomas Basin which is where we like to moor. It is 58 foot wooden limit seiner. By the end of the season it turns out they had caught over a million pounds of salmon. It was a good year.  photo DSCN9028_zps78d7b001.jpg Then one of the cruise ships came in. This is Disney’s one and it played the theme from the Magic Kingdom on its horn. How is that for corporate branding? If you look close you can see my nephew’s seiner tied up to the dock below it. It looks only slightly bigger than the lifeboats.  photo DSCN9031_zpsa3f2c53b.jpg  photo DSC06900_zps63e2f41f.jpg Then a little shopping in Ketchikan  photo DSCN9019_zps6545458c.jpg Then some real shopping, showers at the swimming pool, the sun comes out and we are off.  photo DSCN9055_zpsafa8deca.jpg We head south from Ketchikan to circumnavigate Prince of Wales Island.

4 comments:

  1. This is wonderful, Todd! I completely empathize with the "great hopes" of posting in real time, as the adventures are happening, and what actually happens. Me too, and so be it. I'm delighted to start following your & Viviann's journey now.

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    1. I'm glad you are enjoying it. I'm always a little nervous about writing about places when people from those places read it. I don't want to misrepresent things.

      Todd

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  2. That is awesome, Todd! What a great summer! I'd be scared driving with a boat and then getting into the water. I'd hit all sorts of things! My wife doesn't let me drive much. :)

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    1. It was a great summer, it took a couple of weeks of moping around the house when we got home to get back in the swing of things. We actually anchored one extra night off of Prince Rupert which is where we pass through customs. We just couldn't quite admit it was the end and by anchoring and not going ashore we weren't breaking any Canadian immigration laws (We hope)

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